Teaching My Kids to Cook with a Story Along the Way

-*-

Thursday 13 May 2010

Dinner at Mr. Underhill's

We had known about Mr. Underhill’s for some time since coming to Ludlow two years ago, and now, we have been supplying the flowers for the restaurant since the fall of 2009. But my first experience at Mr. Underhill’s was in January of this year; all of my expectations completely and utterly surpassed, I thought it was perfect in every way. Unpretentious but attentive and intelligent service.  Food -  where every taste had been so carefully thought about: flavor, texture, intensity, continuity, building to a crescendo, leaving you utterly satisfied - like one of the great romantic musical arches composed by Rachmaninoff. On the wine list, I found one of my all time favorites - a small eclectic wine make from Bonny Doon in Santa Cruz California. I was, all night long, on the edge of my seat. Before we had left that night, we had agreed that Judy would let us know when the next available date we could come again. 
On May the 15th, Phil and I will have been together for 6 years, so when May 12th opened up for us to experience Mr. Underhill’s again, we thought we would also use it as an opportunity to celebrate our time together.
Last night, the experience lived up to its Michelin starred status. Absolutely delightful. The menu was exciting - simple descriptions that tell you exactly what you are about to eat, but once delivered, you are thrilled to see the mastery in which it has been executed. I tried to use a different adjective for each course, but the words failed me. One time I thought I might even shed a tear as I experienced absolute culinary perfection - especially the duck liver custard with sweetcorn cream and lemongrass glaze. It is food that is thrilling, joyous and inspired - small portions (but lots of them) leaving you wishing there was just another bite. By the time you have coffee and chocolates you couldn’t manage another morsel. 
Im sure you must all think I have gone a little over the top about the way I described last night, but I promise you, I have not. You must experience it for yourself to see that I have been absolutely true. If you have never been or haven’t been in a while, call and make a reservation to experience what Chris and Judy Bradley have at Mr. Underhill’s. Thank you to you both. Bravo!

Friday 7 May 2010

Ludlow Spring Festival

If anyone happens to be in town this weekend for the Spring Festival, please stop in to Abundant Saturday or Sunday (8 & 9 May). We'll be here and would love to say Hi!
Have a great weekend.

Sugar Cookies

Miss Lucy was the matriarch of the Lussenden family. She had lived in Montana all her life and had been the wife of Malcolm for some forty years. Together they had settled in the north west part of the state and owned some of the most beautiful ranch land in Montana. The ranch was called the “A Lazy 6”. She’d done it all... Birthed lambs, calves, fought off grizzlies, shot rattlesnakes, helped Malcom work the herd of their prized black angus cattle from the saddle of her Tobiano Paint mare. She was a real Montana Annie Oakley.
She wasn’t a style icon, but definitely had a style. She was always (I cant stress always enough) in pants (rayon - easy care polyester) and usually in green or light brown (you’ll understand in a minute). Her tops were (again, very easy care) patterned (colorful and bold) and short sleeved.  Her outfits were always set off by her hair. It had always been, and would always be, a fiery orangie-red color that mysteriously escaped any grey.  Mabel, one of the beauticians in the little town of Choteau that did Luciles hair, must have been sworn to secrecy about the color that she used to keep her hair that distinctive and never changing color. 
The Lussenden ranch was adjacent to the bit of land my grand dad first bought in 1973. As Malcolm and Lucile had been ranching for almost all their lives and were ready to retire and in 1974 my grand dad bought the A Lazy 6. The ranch was about a 45 minute drive to town. All but the first 4 or 5 miles was a dirt road. In the winter storms that would snow them in for weeks at a time. The spring kept them busy with fixing fences to miles of jack-leg and pole barbed-wire fences. In the summer they would be busy with haying while the calves were born in the fall. No matter the reason or season, she had food in a pantry that would have lasted for months.... Months. Not just a cupboard with 3 shelves - but a room full of shelves filled with provisions that would “last for a good long while.”
From the turn off from the main road, the house was at the end of a 6 mile track and about halfway of that was visible from her kitchen window that looked east. She could see you coming. At first you could see just the dust and then the color and shape of what was coming up the drive. By the time you got to the house, she had a fresh pot of coffee and hot, out of the oven, sugar cookies waiting - every time. And this is how she did it.
(My dear grand mother being from the south always brought with her, her most impeccable manners. We had to use “Miss” in front of a woman's given name and “mister” before a man’s name. So she was always was - and still is to this day, Miss Lucy.)
Miss Lucy bought orange juice in frozen concentrate that came in the cardboard cans with metal lids. After she made orange juice, she would save the cans (and the lids). She would fill the cans with sugar cookie dough and loosely put the top lid back on and would keep these ever-ready cans of cookie dough in the refrigerator. When she saw someone coming up the road to the house, she would take the can, remove the top lid, use a can opener on the bottom lid and start pushing the dough thru the can, slicing a circle of dough off every 1/4 inch thick and laying these circles onto her baking tray. Into a hot oven where 6 or 7 minutes later were the most delicate, delicious treats. If you didn't already admire her for all she could do outside the house, this remarkable woman could not just cook, but she could bake.
No matter what impression I may have given you from the above paragraphs, I will always hold her in the highest regard. She not only shared many of her recipes with me and taught me about the mechanics of cooking and baking, but she also taught me one of my greatest life lessons. 
A couple years later I had come to visit her at the home she and Malcolm bought after they moved away from the A Lazy 6. They lived right in town now, and because she didn't have the 10 minutes to prepare coffee and cookies after seeing someone coming up the drive, I stood in the kitchen chatting with her while she baked cookies for me. All those times before the cookies were ready before we walked into her kitchen. Now, I was seeing it happen from fridge, to oven, to plate. I knew she never used a kitchen timer and now the cookies had been in the oven for a few minutes and I innocently asked her “how do you know when they're done?” She went to the oven and opened the door and listened. She said to me, “you listen, it will always tell you when its ready.”
At the time, I really didn't pay too much attention. I thought it was a strange thing to say from a little bit of an odd woman in polyester with red hair. I don't know how many years later when I thought about what she said and how it stopped me in my tracks to contemplate this great truth she had laid before me.... Because its not just about listening into an oven filled with cookies. It is being with my daughter Haley, teaching her to drive a standard transmission truck and she asks, “how do you know when to shift?” - well you listen to the engine don’t you? It is about listening for the silence when someone is talking, letting them finish before you start talking. It is about being silently reminded to stop and listen to the quiet things in our very busy lives.
So here it is, Miss Lucy’s, Sugar Cookie recipe that she would make up in advance, as part of her store house of readiness and would always have on hand in orange juice cans, ready to bake at a moments notice.
Miss Lucy’s Sugar Cookies
1 c. butter
1 1/2 c. powdered sugar
1 c. white sugar
1 c. oil
2 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla
4 c. flour
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. cream of tartar
1 tsp. baking soda
Cream butter, powdered sugar, white sugar, oil, eggs, and vanilla. Mix in flour, salt, cream of tartar, and baking soda. Place dough on plastic wrap and mold into long sausage shaped rolls. Refrigerate overnight. Cut into circles 1/4’ thick. Leave a little room for spreading. Bake at 350 degrees for 8 minutes minutes. (Bake just until the edges start to turn golden. Don’t over bake.) Makes 75 cookies.